July 9, 2021

5 minute reading

This article is from our Spanish version Use artificial intelligence technology. There may be errors in this process.

Opinions expressed entrepreneur The contributors are their own.

Mexico’s National Institute of Indigenous Peoples (INPI) calls on American apparel companies Anthropologie stopped copying Ayuuk (Mixe ) The second time for the Tlahuitoltepec indigenous community in Oaxaca.

The agency “condemns the plagiarism of indigenous people’s textile designs, artistic and cultural expressions because they are part of indigenous people’s intellectual property rights, and improper or unauthorized use constitutes an infringement of indigenous people’s collective rights”.

It is a specific kind of embroidery, some flowers correspond to ‘Xaam níxuy’ Shirts have been copied by various brands and profited from the collective intellectual property rights of these people. This dress is part of the traditional clothing of Ayuuj women.

Anthropologie uses floral patterns for ‘Marka embroidered shorts’ According to INPI, the community never authorized them to use their design and asked me to immediately stop selling the clothes.

image: Minister of Culture of Mexico

the same statement The statement stated that, according to Article 31 of the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples, “in addition to the collective maintenance, control, protection and development of their cultural heritage, their traditional knowledge and their cultural expressions, communities also have a right. They have a right. Intellectual property rights”.

For its part, the Santa María Tlahuitoltepec government in Oaxaca also need Anthropologie recognizes and praises people’s designs In addition to asking the community to apologize publicly, because they deny the damage caused by acknowledging the universal human rights of local creations, intellectual property and biological cultural heritage.

image: Municipality of Santa Maria Travito Tepec

Cultural appropriation in the fashion industry

inside Believe them Commenting that the same embroidery was plagiarized five times between 2009 and 2019, they explained that this practice and the appropriation of indigenous Mexican designs is a systemic problem in the fashion industry.

“Across Mexico, there were 39 plagiarism cases from 23 fashion brands, such as Zara and Carolina Herrera , (Between 2012 and 2019) appropriated designs from the indigenous communities of Oaxaca, Chiapas and Hidalgo. “

In May alone, the Mexican Minister of Culture has asked clothing brands to explain Zara, Patowl and Anthropology Embezzlement for inappropriate culture. She specifically pointed out, Zara imitated Mixtec huipil embroidery from Oaxaca on one of her dresses , Made a comparison and asked her to clarify how she intends to give back to the craftsman. The agency also questioned two other brands with similar letters.

These shorts are no longer available on the Anthropologie website. They are priced at 693 pesos ($84.71) and are available in three different colors. However, the company did not comment on this.

From the perspective of the fashion industry, the issue of cultural appropriation is a complex issue. However, plagiarism is a simple sign that cultural codes are respected.Not just Fast Fashion The brand is accused and is also on the list Louis Vuitton, Isabel Marant, Mango, Rhapsody ,and many more.

The designer’s job is to be inspired, look around and create from there, rather than judging established discourse.In the words of a Mexican artisan country , “Big businessmen, big companies, have the opportunity to support craftsmen, this is how it should be. But you will find that things are not the case. I am not influenced by other craftsmen’s copies, but I am talking about us equally.”

“One thing is cultural misappropriation between equality, and the other is cultural misappropriation by multinational companies. ,” artisan Francesca Perez said.

Recognition and respect for the work of others is a basic step in the fashion industry, because if artisans do not want to be recognized, they will not close the door to the world.

And you, what do you think is cultural appropriation?


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